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Note: these examples do not provide adequate ventilation. The rest of the lid will also need to be meshed.
BIN CAGES - HOW TO MAKE
A BIN CAGE CAN BE A TEMPORARY UPGRADE FROM A TRAVEL CAGE, OR AS A CONVALESCENCE HABITAT.
Not the most highly recommended habitats here in SA due to our weather conditions, unlike many other countries, as they can get hot and muggy inside during summer. Furthermore, once you add up the cost for two bins, wide connector/s, mesh and tape, it may actually be best to invest in a proper solid habitat specially designed for hamsters.
NOTE: IN SA WE DO NOT GET LARGE ENOUGH STORAGE BINS TO MAKE ONE CORRECT SIZED HABITAT.
YOU WILL NEED 2 x LARGE BINS JOINED SIDE-BY-SIDE WITH A WIDE CONNECTION IN ORDER TO MAKE A PROPER 5000cm2(+) HABITAT SETUP.
CONSIDERATIONS
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Watch some tutorials on YouTube first to get an idea of techniques, but keep in mind the size of your own SA bins, i.e. do not build a double story unless the base bins meet the recommended minimum unbroken floor space.
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Be aware that joining two undersized bins via standard hamster/narrow tubes does not equate to unbroken floor pace.
ABSOLUTE MINIMUM UNBROKEN FLOOR SPACE
5000cm2 or larger: Length x Width in cm (at the base) = cm2
SHELVES & STORIES DO NOT COUNT!
Volume/liter capacity is irrelevant! Take your tape measure with when shopping for bins, and measure the bases, not the top of any slant.
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NOTE that it may be cheaper/easier to simply build a proper habitat from the start.
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If your hamster starts showing signs of frustration as it grows up (mesh-chewing, constant clambering, aggression, etc.) you will most likely have to upgrade to a larger size anyway, or hassle with adding another bin.
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VENTILATION is very important so, if you have deep bins, one or two openings on the side/front are advisable, not just the 80% on the lid. However, if you have a hamster that has been prone to bar-chewing, either get other bins, or consider making a proper habitat.
A double story bin cage is great to provide extra space but, please, never compromise the unbroken floor space with the bottom bin (e.g. if you can only find 2100cm2 bins, do not make a double story. You will need to have the two bins side-by-side connected close to the bottom with a wide gap/pipe so that it’s almost like one large bin).
This set-up also makes clever use of a dismantled small cage instead of mesh. However, keep in mind that reachable bars/mesh still pose a risk of bar-chewing, so do take this into consideration if you decide on a double-story.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
LIST
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At least 2 x LAREGEST CLEAR STORAGE BINS (measure & calculate bases to make sure you'll have at least 5000cm2 total at ground level).
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STRONG WIRE MESH/GRID (see ventilation options below).
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CABLE TIES (or nuts, bolts & washers)
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DUCT TAPE.
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WIRE CUTTERS (or an ANGLE GRINDER).
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BOX CUTTER (or an ANGLE GRINDER/JIGSAW).
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SOLDERING IRON or THIN METAL ROD for heating (or a DRILL)
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SAND PAPER.
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TOILET PIPES OR WIDE CONNECTORS TO JOIN THE BINS.
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MARINE/AQUARIUM SEALANT.
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Patience & a few hours. Don't be afraid...it can be fun!
Obviously, a SOLDERING IRON & an ANGLE GRINDER will make the job a lot easier and quicker, so try to borrow, or rope someone in who has them. However, with somewhat more effort, you can also do without them.
JOINING THE BINS
To make one complete habitat space:
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Cut away one side of each bin in order to join them. This may be trickier to do with slope-sided bins, so you'll have to get those ends straight down.
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It may also make the lids trickier to modify, so do plan ahead before cutting the ventilation areas of those.
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Secure the two ends together with a few brace brackets down the sides and at the bottom, with nuts and bolts, to stabilise the structure (don't use cable ties, as the hamster could chew them broken)
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Remember to ensure that any sharp points of bolts should be on the outside of the habitat.
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Cover the inside of the joins with duct tape or melamine joint sealing strips.
To join bins side-by-side:
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This can be done lengthwise, widthwise or in an L-shape, by using one or two wide items as connectors towards the bottom of the bins.
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This can also be tricky to cut out the holes for the connectors.
- CONNECTION OPTIONS:
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Toilet pipes cost approximately R150 in the plumbing sections of hardware stores (simply remove the rubber seals and sand the edges down with sandpaper to make smooth).
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Any large strong plastic container with the bottom cut off to make a single wide through-pass, and rough edges sanded smooth.
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Never use soft plastic or cardboard tubes.
THE BINS (Utility & Storage)
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PLASTICS WHOLESALERS (Mambo’s, Plasticland, Crazy Plastics, Westrand Packaging, West Pack, etc.) appear to have the largest ranges and the cheapest, but Game and Makro may also stock decent sizes.
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Take your tape measure with to check the dimensions for floor space.
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Ranging from approx. R350 to R800.
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Ideally, you do not want one that is too shallow since deep-enough bedding and a wheel still have to fit, and you want to avoid the hamster being able to reach the ventilation mesh at the top.
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We recommend CLEAR/TRANSULCENT bins only.
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If you really have to choose a solid colour or non-transparent bin, you will need to cut a large window in the front, in addition to the fully meshed lid. YOUR HAMSTER CANNOT LIVE IN A DARK HOLE and needs to have some kind of a 'view' and recognition between day and night, and not just from the top.
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NEVER USE BLACK BINS! It has been noted that this intense darkness often caused stress for the hamsters, even if there is a front window.
PLEASE GET THE LIDS!
Many people decide to leave the lid off because they couldn't be bothered to cut and mesh for ventilation. This is so not a safe move! Besides the risk of other pets (and the neighbourhood cat) from gaining access to your hamster, NEVER EVER underestimate a hamster's ability to hatch an escape plan.
If the lid does not fasten really tightly, it is advisable to invest in a few bulldog clips to secure it to the lip. An experienced owner's hamster managed to use the water bottle as leverage to reach up to the top and sadly got its head stuck in the loose gap and suffocated. Bulldog clips will also help prevent the hamster lifting a lightweight lid.
MAGYVER CRATES are great and quite economical. The straight sides should make them easy to work with and to connect neatly side-by-side.
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Unfortunately the most common largest size is only 60x40cm so, even though two won't quite make the 5000cm2 habitat, it could be forgiven for a dwarf hamster if you add an extra shelf or two.
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A Syrian will definitely require 3 of these joined together.
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The lids usually cost extra but apparently don’t fit all that well, so you will need some large bull clips/clamps.
ADDIS 100L EXTRA LARGE:
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The measurements state 89x46cm (4094cm2), so two would be fantastic for either dwarf of Syrian, but PLEASE MEASURE THEM YOURSELF in the shop!
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Some people have checked and they are just under 4000cm2, while others measure them and they are only 2660 cm2! So please check!
VENTILATION OPTIONS
DRILLED HOLES DO NOT PROVIDE ADEQUATE VENTILATION, NO MATTER HOW MANY YOU DRILL.
You need to imagine that the lid and front window is completely open, but the only way to do this and keep the hamster inside is to use mesh/bars!
At least 80% of the lid must be ventilated.
POINTS TO CONSIDER WHEN CUTTING OUT THE VENTILATION SPACES
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If you really have to make a front window and want to mesh it, keep in mind the space at the bottom of the bin – bedding substrate still needs to go in, so don’t go too low or you’ll have it spilling out!
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If your hamster is currently a bar-chewer, you may want to consider making any window spaces higher up that can't be reached.
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Another point to remember about chewing is that some hamsters will insist on hatching an escape plan and may start chewing on the edges of a window cutout. It is therefore important to ensure that your wire ventilation extends as far beyond the cutout as possible, particularly at the bottom edge. If you notice chewing, you should reinforce these edges with something… half-round edging strips from your hardware store, willow branches, etc....or use a similar method to "plugging up gaps" to line the edges (see Tips section below).
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THE LID IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF VENTILATION. Ammonia rises to the top, even from a sand potty, and can build up to dangerous levels within the habitat. If you are making a stacked double story setup, make sure the bottom bin has plenty of ventilation around the tops of the sides, in order for any ammonia to escape. The front will definitely require a ventilation window too.
EXAMPLES OF VENTILATION MATERIALS THAT CAN BE USED
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NEVER USE PLASTIC MESH. Your hamster will gnaw through if he can reach it.
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NEVER USE MOSQUITO / FLY SCREEN. Not only can your hamster rip this open very easily (or another pet), but it is too fine to allow proper airflow & ventilation, and the habitat will become stuffy.
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If you cannot find suitable mesh, or one of these solutions, Mesh For Birds in Kempton Park (JHB) sells various meshes used for aviaries (they will also courier).
GALVANISED WELDED MESH wiring is incredibly strong.
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Some hardware stores occasionally sell it by the running meter, or you can order from Mesh For Birds.
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Get "block" size 13x13mm or 13x25mm is perfect for lid ventilation and any windows.
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You'll need strong wire cutters or an angle grinder.
CHICKEN/HEXAGON MESH is relatively inexpensive.
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Although not as sturdy as galvanised mesh, will work fine for lid ventilation.
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May not stand up to incessant “bar-chewers” and therefore not recommended for any window spaces.
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Choose the smallest 13mm "hole" size.
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Available by the running meter at many hardware stores, or from Mesh For Birds.
EXPANDED METAL MENTLATHE /DIAMOND MESH (GALV) is great!
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Not as hard to cut as galvanised wire, and not as flimsy & difficult as chicken mesh.
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The mesh gaps are also a perfect size due to the shape.
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Found at Buco Hardware Tokai in 2.5m (L) x 60cm (W) rolls and not too expensive.
CAKE COOLING RACKS are obviously available from just about any supermarket or Crazy Store and can be convenient as ventilation space grids. Do check the bar spacing12mm max.
An OLD/UNDERSIZED WIRE CAGE can easily be dismantled for the wire sides to be used as ventilation space grids on any habitat.
Charity and second hand/junk shops often sell these old used things at really low prices – they’re usually horrible cages, so you’ll be doing some future hamster a favour by taking it out of circulation.
Make sure the bar spacing is no larger than 12 mm.
DISPOSABLE BRAAI's have really great sturdy grids inside them!
Reasonable price and sold at Spars, hardware stores, and most supermarkets.
Please be careful though...the edges of these grids are really sharp.
A METAL SIEVE could also work well for side/front ventilation in place of ordinary mesh.
Use a few cable ties to secure in place over a circular cut-out,, and then hot glue all the way around to ensure that it's really secure in case the hamster gnaws the cable ties loose. Revert to strong mesh if this happens.
EXTRA TIPS (IMPORTANT)
If your BIN IS TOO SHALLOW FOR A TALL WHEEL (particularly in the case of large Syrian wheels), be sure to plan for this before cutting the entire lid for ventilation, as you may want to leave a section where you can attach a raised piece of mesh to accommodate this.
Alternatives to these two examples, which may be easier:
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A smaller plastic container with a ventilation grid on the base and then attached upside down to that section of the main lid.
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An old small cage with the tray discarded and fasten to that section of the main lid.
Note that these two examples do not provide adequate ventilation for a hamster. The rest of the lid needs to be meshed too.
PLASTIC BINS CAN CRACK QUITE EASILY if you apply too much immediate pressure, so do go slowly when making the cutouts.
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Stick masking tape down before marking your cutting lines. The tape will minimise cracking.
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For minor cracks, use clear packaging tape to cover them, which sticks really well and flat.
PLUGGING UP GAPS where you haven't managed to cut out very neatly, like a round hole for a round connector, simply use non-toxic marine/aquarium sealant. Then press some clean pebbles, marbles, glass beads, etc. into any blobs that your hamster may think of nibbling.
Don't forget to SAND DOWN ALL ROUGH EDGES where you've cut holes in the bin – rough edges of the plastic are very sharp and can cut your hamster quite badly!
Alternatively, line the cutouts with wooden slats from a tomato crate, rods, half-round edging strips (really cheap at hardware stores), willow branches, hard plastic paper binders, etc. You can fasten these with metal zip ties or screws (sharp ends on the outside of the cage).
WIRE MESH IS VERY SHARP, so always place it on the outside of the bin to prevent injury to the hamster.
Cover the exposed sharp edges with duct tape to prevent snagging yourself. We get some lovely patterned duct tapes nowadays (Builders Warehouse/Express), to add some funk to your bin cage.
If you’re using cable ties, do keep the fastening and sharp cut-off bits on the outside of the habitat.
If you're using any nuts ‘n bolts, make sure the flatter parts are on the inside of the habitat, and grind down any sharpness.
INSIDE THE BIN
You may want to create hideys and shelves, etc. inside the cage. Alternatively, there are a few good shops and online shops that sell a variety of items.
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HOT KNIFE HACK
TURN A SOLDERING ROD/IRON INTO A HOT KNIFE
A hot knife will make it easier to cut through the bin, reducing the risk of cracking the plastic. Cheap soldering irons can be found at China Town. Try to find one with the highest wattage and that has a screw to replace the soldering tip. The hot knife hack is about 3.15 minutes into the video:
There are 100's of great examples on Google Images
