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If you're looking for a hamster, or your own hamster needs to be rehomed, or your hamster had babies that need to find good homes, this page is for you.



BONDING "POUCH" can be very useful in the taming process to allow your hamster to become accustomed to being close to you without too much initial handling. (Aslo useful to comfort an ailing or cold hamster).

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HAMSTER BONDING BAGS are available in different patterns from Jadi's Pet Haven:

083 894 4476

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CBD Oil can have a calming effect, so may be useful to give a drop or two about 30 minutes before taming sessions. 

Unfortunately, there is no longer a maker of these BONDING SCARVES, but you could attempt to make similar yourself out of a snood or hood from an old sweater. Get creative!

You can also use a plain FLUFFY SNOOD or any soft cloth to cradle your hamster in for comfort and security.

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Understanding new hamster


Not only for the wellbeing of the hamster but also for your relationship with it, going forward.

Hamsters are very sweet and can be tamed reasonably quickly and easily. But what happens when, upon bringing your new fluff ball home, and you notice that they are terrified, won't approach you, or even scream every time you go near? Even after some time goes by, the little guy or gal might still be shy, jumpy, or afraid of you.

Pet shops and rescue centers can be extremely stressful places for hamsters: loud, smelly, noises from other animals, etc. (and in shops there is often also constant interference and even rough handling by staff). Therefore, many hamsters we get from these situations can be extremely traumatised, anxious, and stressed.


This information can help you to build trust with your new hamster.



Make sure your hamster has an adequately sized cage, with plenty of space to run around, and a burrow area of safe bedding substrate (never pine shavings). Wild hamsters run miles and miles every night, and if he or she has enough space, she'll be happy and won’t feel as trapped and vulnerable.


When you bring your new hamster home, she might be in a new cage. Your home smells completely different from the pet store, rescue centre, or previous home, and has had to endure a car journey. She may have changed habitats a few times already in a short space of time. She is surrounded by new people who sound and smell different. If she's young, she might be away from her nest mates for the first time. All of these factors are nerve-wracking for a hamster and the first thing she needs is some personal space in which she can feel safe. The last thing she wants is to be handled and bothered right now in this high anxiety time!

Leave her alone for a few days to get used to her new home and the smells that surround her. During this time, she can spread her own scent around the cage, build a nest, and maybe hoard some food.


Change the water and food daily, but don't touch her yet. Don't worry if she is startled at first. She will become accustomed to your hands going in and out of the cage, and learn that your presence means fresh water and new food. If need be, add more stripped up 1-ply toilet paper or extra nesting (never fluffy nesting). Do this at the same time every day, if you can. Late evening is ideal, as hamsters are more alert during those times. She will start to get used to you showing up every day to give her fresh food and water.

Hint: Rubbing some of the nesting and/or bedding substrate on your body will help her become familiar with your scent.


It is very important that your hamster is fully awake and alert, and you let the her come to you first. Do not chase her or forcibly grab her or she might get frightened and bite you. Wash your hands thoroughly first. Put a treat on your hand and lay it flat inside the cage. She might come and sniff at your fingers, and she might nibble - don't be startled if she does this…she is likely testing if you are food. If you are lucky, she might crawl on your hand right away and eat the treat. She might sniff at your fingers and then ignore you, which is fine as well. Put the treat closer to the edge of your hand where it is easier for her to reach, since she might not feel comfortable crawling onto your hand completely just yet. If she is reluctant to take it from you at first, simply leave the treat for her to fetch once your hand has gone…she will soon come to learn that the hand is a friend and brings happiness.


* Grab her   * Make any sudden movements   * Make any loud noises  

* Chase her around the cage

Once she feels okay with sitting on your hand, gently stroke her back with your free hand. After doing this two or three times over a few days, try bringing her out of the cage still on top of your hand.


Unlike other animals such as dogs, hamsters have no concept of bad behaviour and do not understand punishment. Most of the time, hamsters do "bad" things out of either fear or boredom. If your hamster is biting you, distract it with a toy or a treat. A nibble generally means that they're testing out your scent. If your hamster bites hard, it means they're scared and don't want to be on your hand.

Hamsters are naturally prey animals and get startled quite easily, especially when approached without warning.

Time will tell what makes your hamster bite. Reinforce good behaviour with treats, and refrain from doing things that will make your hamster stressed and afraid.


Hamsters don't like sudden loud noises or movements. Your hamster will trust you if they know you're gentle and speak quietly.

What does it mean if my hamster squeaks or screams?

Hamsters make different sounds for several reasons, including happy little chirping noises. Screaming is a sign of fear or pain (like a constant loud funny buzz).All hamsters are different and, with time, you will learn your own hamster's personality, and start to understand what they are comfortable or not comfortable with.


Once things have settled down and your hamster is willingly coming to you, exploring your hand, and exploring the room, give your little friend some extra things to keep them from getting bored. If your hamster is bored, it might dig continuously in the same spot or nibble at the bars of its cage (note: bar chewing is really BAD for their teeth).

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Hayley Thea Ittmann with Rosemary


BE AWARE THAT YOU COULD GET BITTEN DURING THE EARLY STAGES OF TAMING! For bad bites, refer to advice on the Health Page.

(See full written editorial program further down)


We recommend using this method alongside "How to tame a new hamster",

taking over with Bath Taming once you are able to transfer your hamster.

2023-03-11 20_02_19-Victoria & Albert Winsford Gloss White Freestanding Bath 1744 x 798 x
bathtub taming
  1. Make sure your bathroom is warm. Put in the plug and place a large towel, blanket or fleece in the bath. This important because the hamster will slip on the bath surface and will become scared which defeats the objective.

  2. Get into the bath with your hamster in a tube/transfer item and gently place it down at the bottom of the bath. Allow it to come out in its own time and explore by walking around you. BUT DO NOT TOUCH your hamster. Do this for no longer than 5-10 minutes and then use your treats to get your him/her back into the tube/transfer item. Place back in the cage and offer a treat.

  3. Repeat the same steps but this time take a favourite treat or food with you and offer this as s/he walks around. Your hamster will associate being in the bath as somewhere where to get nice treats. S/he may walk on your legs or up your body and, if they allow, you can gently stroke the back but do not force this. If your hamster runs away let him/her. Do this for no more than 15 minutes and repeat the transfer back to the cage.

  4. Repeat previous steps and, when your hamster comes to you, offer treats on the flat of your hand. If your hamster steps on to your hand DO NOT try to lift him/her at this stage. If s/he will allow then you can stroke the back and keep putting treats on your hand and allowing him/her to " step on ". No more than 15 minutes again today and transfer back to cage again.

  5. Repeat previous steps but this time place the transfer item, with your hamster in it, onto your chest rather than the bottom of the bath. Your hamster will now have to walk onto your chest to come out into the bath and when he/she does offer a treat as a reward. Repeat this 2-3 times and then transfer back to the cage in the transfer item.

  6. Repeat previous steps but, today, place a treat on the flat of your hand and position the transfer item so your hamster has to walk out onto your hand to gain the treat. Place more treats on the flat of your hand and, as your hamster steps on, gently raise him/her off the ground for a few seconds then lower again. If your hamster is confident with being lifted on your hand, then transfer to your chest and gently stroke the back and allow him/her to go where s/he wishes. No more than 15 minutes and transfer back to the cage.

  7. Repeat previous steps, and repeat step 5, but gently stroke your hamster and allow him/her to walk around your chest and shoulders while stroking and offering treats. Depending on how well s/he has responded to the process, you may be able to pick your hamster up. Do this by gently scooping with both hands... DO NOT grab from over the top with one hand or your hamster will think it's a predator. Today no more than 20 minutes and if your hamster responds well and allows you to hold him/her then there is no need to continue with Bath Taming. If your s/he is a nervous hamster or has had an unpleasant past experience you may need to repeat this step for another day or two.

It can seem as if you are repeating what you have followed in the video once you have transferred to the bath and it's tempting to miss a step, but when you are following the cage taming you are gaining your hamsters trust in allowing you into their home (territory) and not seeing you as a threat or a predator. This can be invaluable when you need to do something in the cage or check that your hamster is ok and well, rather than him/her panicking and becoming more stressed trying to get away from you.

Once you have transferred to the bath your hamster may respond differently; just like we humans, hamsters have their own individual personalities and the steps are a guideline only. It may be that you have a very confident hamster and you can speed up the steps, or you could have a very nervous hamster and you need to continue a bit longer or even repeat in some cases. In the latter case, persevere and don't lose heart because eventually you will reap the rewards (in most cases) and form a firm bond with your hamster. Again, this is invaluable so that you can do their health checks or administer any treatments, as well as spending quality time together.


It can sometimes be the case that a hamster just does not respond to any taming and they simply do not like being held or touched. This can be for many reasons such as their past, genetics, or temperament, so do not blame yourself; and, most importantly, listen to your hamster and work with what you have.


Bath taming is also an excellent and safe way for children to learn how to hold a hamster and be calm around them.

~ Courtesy of Wendy Singleton via Hamster Worldwide Care ~ 

taming Editorial

TAMING PROGRAM (editorial version)

Erin's guide on How To Tame A Hamster

When you bring your hamster home allow them to settle into their cage for 2-3 days so they can get used to the new surroundings, smells and sounds. This is vital for your hamster as moving will cause great stress in your new pet and hamsters are prone to several severe stress-related health problems like Wet tail (see Problems and Illnesses) which can and often do lead to death. In order to prevent these illnesses the hamster must be kept as stress-free as possible.

 Step 1. (Estimated time 1-3 weeks)

After your hamster has settled in for a few days you can begin taming.

  • NEVER pick your hamster up in the first stages as you will only cause them a lot of stress and you may even end up getting bitten.

  • Chose a natural, healthy treat like small seeds, mealworms, scrambled egg etc. and hold it in your fingers near to the entrance of your hamsters nest while they are awake.

  • Be patient and wait for your hamster to respond and take the treat. If they are too nervous to take the treat leave it near the nest and move away.

  • Do this 2 or 3 times a day, every day! Use different natural treats each time so your hamster doesn't get bored and soon your hamster will be happy to take treats from your fingers.


Step 2. (Estimated time 1-2 weeks)

Now that your hamster is taking treats from you its time to move on to "Palm Feeding".

  • This time you will do the same as in step one only you will place the treat in the palm of your hand and wait patiently for your hamster to notice.

  • They might not take the treat right away and lots of practice will be needed for some hamsters but within time your hamster will happily sit on your hand while eating the treat.

  • If your hamster takes the treat and eats it somewhere else you are not ready for the next step.

  • It is important that the hamster is climbing onto your hand happily before you move on.


 Step 3. Part 1. (Estimated time 1.5 weeks)

You have two options at this point; the first is easier to do with dwarf hamsters. The second is easier for Syrians.

Option 1.

  • Once your hamster has happily been climbing on your hand for treats over several days you can begin lifting them off the ground once they are on your hand.

  • Start with just a few inches off the ground in case they panic and want to jump!

  • Then as they become more used to the movement you can lift them higher and higher until you have them at a level you are comfortable with.

(If option 1 worked, skip option 2 and move on to the next paragraph)

Option 2.

  • Using a small box or tube coax your hamster inside with treats and then lift it gently off the ground just a little.

  • Allow them to get used to the feeling of being lifted by lifting them slowly up and down getting a little higher each time.  

  • Place a hand flat at either end of the tube and wait until your hamster comes out (you may want to use treats to encourage them!).

  • When your hamster is out remove the tube and hold them carefully in your hand.


Step 3. Part 2. (Estimated time 1+ weeks)

Now that you are holding your hamster you can allow them to walk across you by placing your hands one-besides the other making a never ending path.

  • Your hamster will walk across your hands and braver hamsters may even walk up your arms and over your body.

  • This step can be practiced throughout the hamster’s life as your hamster will enjoy doing this for a game.

  • ome hamsters may be happy enough to settle down and sit or even sleep in your hands but most will prefer to keep moving!


Step 4. (Estimated time 1 week)

You could do this before step 3 or after - it really doesn't make a difference!

This step will teach you how to get your hamster used to being stroked and touched without flinching or nipping.

  • While your hamster is inside a traveller or small box use a brush (old toothbrush or hamster brush) to gently stroke different parts of their body.

  • A hamster who hasn't been stroked before may flinch but they will soon get used to the feeling.

  • Once your feel your hamster is comfortable then you can begin stroking them with your finger or hand without the risk of being bitten! 


 Step 5. (Estimated time 1+ weeks)

This step will teach you how to pick up your hamster by hand and get your hamster used to being lifted.

  • While your hamster is in a travel box or on your lap, take your right hand and wrap it around the hamster’s body ensuring that your fingers are supporting the belly.

  • Lift your hamster a few inches from the ground, then take your left hand and cup it underneath their bottom for extra support.  

  • You can now lift and carry your hamster, though I recommend practicing a few times over a box or carpeted floor first in case your hamster wriggles free and falls.

  • When you and your hamster are confident you can start carrying your hamster to a safe play place in this way.

Once your hamster is happy with steps 1-5 it is considered tame.

Every hamster has a different definition of the word tame. For some it means not running away terrified at the sight of you, while for others it means snuggling in for a cuddle with their owner.

Do not give up handling your hamster, even if it becomes obvious that you have a 'Ghost Hamster', as you will need to do regular health checks.

Step 6. (Estimated time 1+ weeks) HEALTH CHECKS

Your hamster is going to need home health checks regularly and part of that includes turning your hamster over to examine their stomach, but as prey animals hamsters are not going to let you turn them over easily.

Not all hamsters will master this step but its important that you as the owner at least learns to do it properly in order to perform a full health examination for your hamster and spot any problems early on. 

  • To practice this you need to start in a similar way to Step 5 by holding your hamster low over a box.

  • Take your right hand and cup it around the hamster’s body so that your fingers support the belly.

  • Place your index finger gently over the back of the hamsters head for extra support.

  • Slowly turn your hamster over to reveal their belly and raise your fingers so you can examine it.

  • Your hamster is likely going to kick and wriggle, when they do slowly turn them back over and set them down on the ground.

  • Let them rest for a moment and then try again.

  • I would only recommend practicing this step for a few minutes a day as it will stress your hamster out if you practice for too long.

Good luck!

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